Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Jeff Smith

The frugal gourmet. I understand he was accused of being naughty but he was never criminally charged, that his insurers settled and that pretty much ended things including his show. He died in his sleep of heart disease, so spare us the lectures of good vs bad cholesterol.



No chipped beef for you! The videos are all pathetic. Don't bother. This guy prattles aimlessly about the Stanley Cup while his suffering wife stirs. They are all using prepared sliced sandwich beef either from tins, or jars, or vacuum packages, drowned in simple Béchamel sauce. You can do better. None consider nutmeg, customary for Béchamel, none consider chile powder or chile sauce, none even consider Worcestershire, an obvious addition. None consider onions nor garlic. Jeeze Louise. You can do this same thing with leftover steak, corn beef roast, or chicken, and all of that would be improvement. They serve it over toast, but any starch will work. Noodles an excellent substitution over toast, baked potato would be better, even left over baked potato, even microwaved potato. Riced mashed potato with a teaspoon of horseradish with chipped beef made of leftover steak would make a gourmet meal out of shit on shingles. 

Screw frugality. Food is one of the few real pleasures in life, so go for it. That is not saying you should be profligate. You can do very well for yourself by sticking with basics. Turns out, by modern standards of eating, peasants of old ate very well. It has nothing to do with frugality, saving coupons and such so that you end up purchasing in bulk things you wouldn't purchase otherwise, then purchase storage cabinets to save things for decades taking over rooms and garages as your coupon obsession is exercised, and everything to do with mastering basics. 

Gourmet Cooking for Dummies was one of the books given to me by Olga. Written by Charlie Trotter, a famous chef. I looked up "eggs," surely there would be a whole chapter, don't you think? 

No. Just a mention of eggs on two pages. For dummies indeed. 

Master eggs, the things that they do as glue, as thickener, as emulsion, their nutrition, their puffing ability, their sauce making ability, the variety of forms that they take, their wonders to behold, their general excellence, their utter simplicity, their beauty, and you go very far in mastering cooking generally, but they get only two mentions in Cooking for Dummies. In my humble opinion that makes the book nearly worthless. It is a seriously fatal lacuna. 

But here is what I noticed about this video.

Rice porridge
corn meal mush
grits

They are all the same thing. They are a grains and kernels ground to powder and cooked in 3X-4X the amount of liquid; water, or some kind of broth, even tea or coffee.

In this case the rice is more liquid to form a gruel soup. The corn mush is chilled and allowed time to set to a solid (as all of them will). The grits are corn that is treated first with lye before milling to rid the outer corn kernel husk and making the kernel more easily digestible. The remnant lye leaving behind its own unique and attractive flavor. This is the same thing as masa harina, the powder used for tamales and to make corn tortillas.

This idea of milling a kernel to flour can be extended to any dried bean. Flavored in any way beans are flavored and left in its mush form, not diluted to soup or set and chilled to a solid. They can be all cooked to flavorful mush. It sounds not so great, and it looks a bit worse, but this has become one of my all-time favorite things to make quickly.

I want some right now.

I can make this flavorful bean mush breakfast with fried eggs as quickly and easily as people prepare morning coffee.

I keep all kinds of kernels and beans sealed tight in mason jars. It makes for a colorful collection. And it looks like I know what I'm doing, as cook, as artist, as kitchen set designer, as photographer. Eh.

I also keep all kind of flavor agents handy, my spice rack is an entire kitchen cabinet that includes dry onion and dehydrated garlic, various prepared curries, various chile powders, and the like.

A tiny spice rack that spins around makes me sad. It tells me the person does not know what they are doing.

I can randomly select any dry bean, chickpea, legume, any dry kernel, any rice variety or popcorn, and process it to powder using an electric coffee mill, then microwave in 3X+ water or available stock along with butter and dry herb, garlic, onion, what have you, and in minutes produce flavorful mush to spread on a plate as base for two eggs fried quickly in butter. Then slide the eggs onto the mush. The buttery pan available to press toast into.  Cleans the pan and butters the toast simultaneously.

The bean, or kernel, or grain mush comes out differently each time because each time selections are random.

A mere 1/4 cup dry bean, kernel, or grain + 3/4 cup water + dry spices + butter.

No need to buy cornmeal in a box, grits in a box, chickpea flour. No need for any of that. The great thing about it is nothing is lost to oxidation, manufacturing processing, packaging, production, transportation and storage. The powder is milled freshly.

A tortilla is perfect for getting the last smear of  flavorful mush mixed with egg off the plate. So you won't have to lick the plate like a dog, as I do, to get the last drop, it is that compellingly delicious.  Toast works as well. Sourdough toast sends the dish right over the top. POW! Breakfast does not get better than this.

I wonder why Jeff Smith missed this connection between the elements of his presentation. Why did he fail at that grand final unifying field theory that would simplify his entire array, and make his presentation all so clear?

I do not understand why my understanding has failed to sweep the whole world.

I just don't.

Those Chinese mentioned have the whole world of grains available to them to do what they're already doing with their rice gruel and extend it beautifully with eggs and some kind of bread.

Those Southerners mentioned with their grits have the whole world of grains and dry beans available to them, why limit their focus to hominy?

That corn meal mush guy mentioned has the colors of the rainbow in beans and grains and more available that all do the exact same thing, if solidify and fry it they must. All the beans and kernels and grains do that.  Why limit the focus to corn?

This failure to see and embrace what I've found is beyond my comprehension.

Also, why the slagging on bacon and eggs? That was the best of the lot. Jeff omitted toast and jam with coffee, a typical Denny's type breakfast.  The problem occurs by having that same meal every single day for years on end onto decades. The problem with it arises from absence of variety. And that is what I am trying to convey.

My dad would have fried trout for breakfast just for a change.

Jeff Smith leaves off Mexican breakfast, desayuno, a variety of light meals offered in the cool of a morning that promises a blazing hot day, with birds noisily chirping in nearby cages in the shade or outside. A concha with jam or a pastry roll, juice, coffee, milk, fruit, toast and tomato.

Japanese have miso for breakfast. There is a vast variety of miso. A mug of miso soup is easy to prepare as instant coffee. It is controlled fermented smashed beans, so, partially digested by microscopic organisms, that aids in digestion by humans, in the form of thick sludge the consistency of peanut butter, mixed with hot water. That's it. Bang. Miso soup. It is delicious. By itself, or as base soup for tofu and vegetables, noodles and such. Faster than preparing fresh coffee. An extended breakfast will have rice, fish, egg, vegetable relishes and the like in small portions.

The South River miso pictured is the best available in the United States.

Jeff Smith omits mentioning that college students have this idea of fast variety nailed. Leftover pizza is all this at once in an instant. No preparation required.  Leftover pizza straight from the refrigerator is a perfect breakfast of carbs, protein and fat, that is, grain, sausage, flavorful sauce, cheese. Perfect.

Originally I searched Frugal Gourmet to show Jeff Smith's comfort with dead air time. I recalled his show somewhat relaxing. I recalled he did not have a need to prattle, jibber jabber all the way through. That is what I remember of his excellent show. It seemed to me quieter than modern cooking shows as exemplified by Rachel Rae, the greatest of all prattlers, Jeff's show was more relaxed more filled with quietude as he simply demonstrated. I wanted to use two videos to contrast with modern shows that insist the host keep talking, to keep blabbering about what and who and why and when and by what mechanisms they do what they do, extending even to family anecdotes uncles and great aunts the whole family tree, even pets, to keep the presentation interesting to an audience that demands constant stimulation and emotional connection. But then Jeff Smith prattles all the way through this video and there went that whole idea, completely blown. What a bummer.

34 comments:

ampersand said...

Between him and Elmo, PBS should change
their name to the Pederast Broadcasting Network.

ndspinelli said...

Edit this down by 50% and people will read it.

ndspinelli said...

Edit the video down to less than 2 minutes and people will watch it.

ndspinelli said...

We all need people who care to tell us the truth sometimes.

ndspinelli said...

I bet everyone read all 3 of these comments. Short, and to the point.

Chip Ahoy said...

Stop bossing me around.

ricpic said...

Why does Smithy keep inveighing against fat? Fat's where the taste's at.

The Dude said...

The snark potential is high on this one. But I will say this - I agree with you, Chip, that one should not skimp on food. Get the best that you can. It is worth it.

ndspinelli said...

Sixty, Eyetalians spend the most money per capita for food per person. They understand food on a profound level.

ndspinelli said...

Good, precise, declarative, sentence, Chip!

Paddy O said...

I read the first and the second comment, but not the 3rd or 4th.

AllenS said...

It doesn't matter what you eat. Eventually, it will kill you.

ndspinelli said...

PaddyO, LOL!

ndspinelli said...

AllenS, Blueberries and walnuts won't kill you. They'll help you live longer.

The Dude said...

Right up until you choke on one of them sumbitches!

Rabel said...

Lem is diverting this post to Chicago before things get out of hand.

rcocean said...

Great post Chip. The problem with Biscuits and gray is its not fool proof. Go to a restaurant and they will ruin it. Cheap sausage, sausage thats too fatty, powdered milk, no pepper or way too much, milk that tastes weird, etc.

And don't get me started on Restaurant's and hash browns. They ruin them almost every time.

The great thing about Bacon and Eggs is its almost fool proof. Although, I agree in variety.

Eric the Fruit Bat said...

tldr, but I recall that the "frugal" gourmet started out pounding veal with a 2x4 and finished up hawking his own commercial grade cookware and a host of expensive and more or less useless kitchen gadgets.

Mission creep.

Michael Haz said...

AllenS, Blueberries and walnuts won't kill you. They'll help you live longer.

It is a scientific fact that everyone who ate blueberries and walnuts in 1900 is now dead. How'd that work out?

The Frugal Gourmet is one of two lousy television "chefs" who were foisted on viewers as people who knew what they were doing in the kitchen. The other was a doof called the Galloping Gourmet.

Both of them cooked crap. Lousy food, pre-packaged junk with a little self-cooked stuff added to make it look frugal or galloping or something. They should have been arrested and tried for high crimes against cuisine.

Evi L. Bloggerlady said...

Jeff Smith had a popular show for a while and promoted the Pike Street Market in Seattle. He did manage to self promote himself for a while till the sexual abuse accusations sunk his TV gig. I never tried his recipes and only recall watching the show a couple of time. Meh.

I remember the Galloping Gourmet too. He was the Australian guy who big on TV even before Smith, but then the GG disappeared. He came back trying to be low fat and heart friendly. I don't think that went anywhere.

Evi L. Bloggerlady said...

MH just noted the GG. Yeah, he was a goof.

I liked Julia Child. I liked James Beard too.

Michael Haz said...

The GG was a Brit, I think. He disappeared for a while after it was made known that he was an alcoholic and wife abuser.

He returned acting very docile, and always emphasized that he was using non-alcoholic wine in the dreck he was cooking.

Evi L. Bloggerlady said...

I checked. Graham Kerr who was the GG was British, but moved as an adult to New Zealand. His professional cook stuff started there but he moved to the states. His low fat comeback was called Mini-Max. How unappealing is that.

Beard I remember on TV. He was kicked out of Reed College for being gay. Like Jeff Smith, Beard was from the Pacific Northwest, but he went to France (like Julia Child) and had a lot of French influence on his cooking. He did promote making your own mayo, which in the sixties and seventies was sort of radical.

Evi L. Bloggerlady said...

The French, Italians and Chinese (and most other cultures too) have hundreds of simple frugal recipes focused on what is available that day. They have access to a garden (or a nearby market) and get what is fresh and good and improvise. That is frugal and gourmet.

bagoh20 said...

I prefer cheap food that most would consider crap. I'm still here and happy as a clam.

BTW, I took my girl out for late lunch yesterday. It was $105 for 4 cocktails, and two small crab cakes about the size of silver dollars. I'll never go back to Gladstones again. They changed everything and increased the prices to ridiculous levels. We went because it's right on the beach, and they were predicting 15 ft. waves, that ended up only about 6 ft. I should have followed her plan of going to our own beach with a cooler and a blanket, but being a woman and a liberal, she's hardly ever right about stuff.

Dust Bunny Queen said...

We have been cooking with more diabetic meals in mind. The downside is you have plan a bit more and my lazy ways of grabbing whatever and cooking are now a thing of the past

The UPSIDE is that the meals are delicious, very tasty and surprisingly inexpensive in the total. We are using a lot more fresh vegetables, lower fat and smaller portions of leaner meats and fish. Less starch and way less reliance on pasta (which I love but I love my husband more).

For example a few nights ago.

Pork cutlets (6 very thin pork chops hammered even flatter and made tender) @ $4.50 less than a pound of pork. Floured and sauteed in a small amount of oil. Topped with a browned butter, lemon and caper sauce. The lemon was the most expensive item at .90.

One sweet potato (actually a yam) peeled and cut into french fry sizes. Tossed in olive oil. Oven baked at 425 and seasoned with sea salt and cracked pepper.

Steamed brown rice.

The whole meal cost less than $6.00 and we had two cutlets left over.

Tonight. Sauteed shrimp ala Bobby Flay(crispy bacon pieces of course) on cheesy grits with a green salad with balsamic vinaigrette.

Frugal doesn't mean boring or tasteless. You can make many cheap meals with variety and taste. Diabetic doesn't mean you have to suffer. We can also have a few glasses of wine or a few cocktails as well. And we DO plan to blow it once in a while on a big juicy fat rib eye steak.

Plus plus bonus. We are losing weight easily.

Evi L. Bloggerlady said...

I remember watching that documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi. Jiro was describing how he considered fatty tuna boring and liked to find under appreciated cuts of fish to serve his customers.

That is an example of being frugal (although Jiro still charged top prices for his fish).

But many home cooks or small chefs do a fabulous job with an inexpensive cut of meat and fresh in season ingredients which because of abundance are not expensive but are still excellent ingredients. That is an example of frugality too.

The Dude said...

Coffee comes in bean form - could one make coffee mush? Would it make sense to sprinkle meth on it? You know, as a little eye-opener in the morning.

Bruce said...

Not too long. Did read.

I find the rhythm and flow of your writing charming. Always enjoy your posts.

I get ndspinelli's point, and I admit I didn't watch the video due to it's length, but I encourage you not to change your writing style.

Evi L. Bloggerlady said...

Actually, the eggs and bacon are probably the better breakfast in terms of nutrition than the bread and rice breakfasts offered by Smith. Eggs are eggcellent. The bacon in the form of a slice or two will satiate you easily till lunch.

The second best would be the English (the grilled tomato is a great). And the English eat a lot of fried eggs. And most breakfasts in Europe will usually include hard boiled eggs.

The coffee and meth breakfast? Now that is a good weight loss plan!

The Dude said...

Rice will spike your blood sugar.

Coffee avec le meth will spike your productivity!!! NOW!!!

rcocean said...

Graham Kerr - an obvious Boozer, his shows always had him quaffing large quantities of wine. Women, like my Mom, loved him and his show. Good looks, funny, and all that booze and butter.

As for me, you can't beat some good coffee, sourdough bread and some butter.

rcocean said...

Just remembered Chip mentioned Miso. That stuff is great. Yep, I'd have that for breakfast if I knew how to make it quickly and cheaply.

The Dude said...

The best way to get a Japanese breakfast quickly is to order on at the Tokyo Hilton.

Some people remember every meal they ever ate. I am not one of them. But I remember breakfast at that Hilton. Miso lucky!